How To Change Golf Shaft: Irons & Driver, Steps, Cost 2025

Tired of looking at that broken club in the corner or feeling like your driver just isn’t performing like it used to? You might think the only solutions are a costly trip to the pro shop or buying a brand-new set, but there’s a third option that puts the power back in your hands. Learning how to change a golf shaft is one of the most impactful equipment upgrades a golfer can make, allowing you to either repair damaged gear or perfectly tailor a club to your unique swing.

Changing a golf shaft, also known as reshafting, is a detailed but manageable DIY process that involves using a heat gun to remove the old shaft, thoroughly cleaning the clubhead’s hosel, and bonding a new shaft in place with golf-specific epoxy. This allows for performance customization or repair, saving money compared to professional services.

This guide is your complete blueprint for success. Leveraging extensive analysis of established club-building patterns and data, we will walk you through every critical step, from creating the perfect toolkit to understanding the final, crucial curing process. We’ll unpack the proven techniques for both irons and drivers, break down the costs, and provide the critical insights you need to effectively navigate the how to change golf shaft process and achieve a professional-quality result right in your own workshop.

Key Facts

It’s a Feasible DIY Project: While more involved than changing a grip, reshafting a golf club is a manageable do-it-yourself task for anyone with the right tools and a patient approach.

Professional Service Costs are Predictable: If you opt for an expert installation, the typical labor cost at a golf store like Golf Galaxy ranges from $20 to $25 per club, with the new shaft being a separate expense.

The Shaft is the “Engine”: The golf shaft is a critical performance component, playing a primary role in how energy is transferred to the ball at impact and influencing everything from ball flight to distance.

A Heat Gun is Essential (A Torch is Not): The key to safely removing an old shaft is a heat gun, which softens the epoxy bond. A blowtorch is not recommended because the intense, direct heat can easily damage clubheads and is particularly risky for graphite shafts.

Patience is a Required Tool: The final step is non-negotiable. While epoxy may feel set in as little as 10 minutes, it requires a full 24 to 48 hours to completely cure and achieve the bond strength needed to withstand a golf swing.

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Why Change a Golf Shaft? (And Should You Do It Yourself?)

Changing a golf shaft is worth it to repair damage or customize performance. You can do it yourself with the right tools, or pay a professional about $20-$25 per club for labor. The process of changing a golf shaft, technically called reshafting, is a powerful way to breathe new life into your equipment. The shaft is often called the “engine” of the club because it dictates how energy from your swing is delivered to the golf ball. A broken shaft obviously needs replacing, but a performance-based swap can be just as valuable. By choosing a shaft with the correct material (like steel or graphite), weight, and stiffness—also known as flex—you can optimize your swing speed, improve accuracy, and gain distance. Heavier, stiffer shafts tend to benefit players with faster swings, while lighter, more flexible shafts can help those with smoother tempos.

Before you begin, the fundamental question is whether to tackle this as a DIY project or hand it over to a professional. This decision comes down to a simple trade-off between cost, time, and your comfort level with hands-on work. A DIY how to change golf shaft project can be incredibly rewarding and cost-effective, but it requires an initial investment in specific tools. On the other hand, professional services offered by Certified Club Technicians guarantee an expert installation, giving you peace of mind that the job is done right.

To help you decide, here is a data-driven comparison of the two approaches for 2025:

Factor	DIY (Do-It-Yourself)	Professional Service
Cost per Club	Cost of materials (epoxy, ferrule, etc.)	Labor fee (typically $20-$25) + cost of materials
Required Equipment	Initial investment in tools (heat gun, vise, etc.)	None
Key Benefit	Significant cost savings over time, customization control	Guaranteed professional result, no tools needed
Best For…	Golfers who enjoy hands-on projects and plan to work on multiple clubs.	Golfers needing a single repair or wanting maximum convenience and assurance.

Are you ready to take full control of your club’s performance with a hands-on project, or is the peace of mind of a perfect professional installation your top priority? This guide will give you the confidence to succeed, no matter which path you choose.

Step 1: Gather Your Complete Reshafting Toolkit

The first step is to assemble all required equipment. This includes a heat gun, a vise, cleaning tools (wire brush, acetone), and materials like the new shaft, ferrule, and golf-specific epoxy. A successful how to change golf shaft project begins long before you touch the club. It starts with preparation. Having every tool and material laid out and ready to go ensures a smooth, efficient, and safe process. There is nothing more frustrating than having a club in pieces only to realize you’re missing a critical component.

This checklist is broken down into reusable tools you’ll invest in and the consumable materials you’ll need for each job.

Essential Tools

Heat Gun: This is the most important tool for the job. It provides steady, controlled heat to safely soften the epoxy that holds the old shaft in place. Heat Gun: Essential for safely loosening epoxy. A blowtorch is not recommended as it can damage graphite shafts.
Shaft Holder Vise: A rubber-jawed vise is crucial for holding the club securely without scratching or damaging the shaft during both removal and installation.
Wire Brush/Nylon Brush: A small, stiff brush is needed to scrape out the old, softened epoxy residue from inside the clubhead’s hosel.
Hyde Knife: This tool is useful for safely cutting away and removing the old ferrule once it has been warmed up.
Sandpaper: A small piece of medium-grit sandpaper is used to abrade the tip of the new shaft, creating a rough surface that helps the new epoxy form a stronger bond.
Safety Glasses: An absolute must-have to protect your eyes from any flying debris or epoxy.
Protective Gloves: Heavy-duty gloves are essential for handling the clubhead after it has been heated, as it will be extremely hot.

Required Materials

New Golf Shaft: Ensure you have the correct shaft for your club. It must have the right flex for your swing and, most importantly, the correct tip size for your clubhead. Woods typically use .335″ or .350″ tips, while irons use .355″ or .370″.
Ferrule: This small plastic piece provides a clean, tapered transition between the top of the hosel and the shaft. It’s both aesthetic and protective.
Golf-Specific Epoxy: You must use a high-strength epoxy specifically formulated for bonding golf clubs. Standard hardware store epoxies are not designed to withstand the violent forces of a golf swing.
Acetone and Q-tips: Acetone is the perfect solvent for the final, deep cleaning of the hosel to remove any remaining oils or residue, ensuring a pure bonding surface.
Marker: A permanent marker is needed to mark the correct insertion depth on the new shaft.
Razor Blade/Cardboard: A disposable surface like a piece of cardboard and a razor blade or mixing stick are needed to mix the two-part epoxy.
Paper Towels: Keep a roll handy for wiping away excess epoxy for a clean, professional finish.

Pro Tip: Create a dedicated workspace and lay out all your tools and materials before you even touch the club. An organized start prevents a messy finish.

Step 2: Remove the Old Shaft from the Clubhead

This step’s outcome is the clean removal of the old shaft, accomplished by heating the club’s hosel for 2-5 minutes to break down the epoxy bond, allowing you to pull the shaft free. This is the first hands-on phase of the how to change golf shaft process, and it’s all about the controlled application of heat. The goal is to break down the chemical bond of the old epoxy without damaging the clubhead or the shaft you’re removing (if you intend to save it). The part of the clubhead where the shaft enters is called the hosel, and it’s the only area you should be heating. The small plastic ring covering the joint is the ferrule.

Here’s the step-by-step process for a safe and effective removal:

Secure the Club: Place the club in your shaft holder vise, ensuring the rubber jaws are clamped securely around the shaft. The clubhead should be oriented in a way that gives you easy access to the hosel. Put on your safety glasses and protective gloves.
Apply Heat: Turn on your heat gun and begin applying heat directly and evenly to the hosel. Keep the heat gun moving in a circular motion around the entire circumference of the hosel to ensure it heats uniformly. Continue this process for 2-5 minutes. You may see a small wisp of smoke as the epoxy begins to break down, which is a good sign it’s working.
Remove the Ferrule: While the hosel area is still warm, use a hyde knife to carefully cut or push the plastic ferrule up and off the shaft. It should slide off with minimal resistance.
Extract the Shaft: Firmly grasp the clubhead with your gloved hand. With your other hand on the shaft, begin to gently twist and pull. For a steel shaft, a twisting motion is very effective. The clubhead should break free from the shaft. If it’s stubborn, apply another minute of heat to the hosel and try again.

CRITICAL WARNING for Graphite Shafts: Pull the shaft straight out without twisting. Twisting can cause the shaft to splinter, leaving pieces inside the hosel that are difficult to remove.

Quick Fact: The goal is to melt the epoxy bond, not overheat the clubhead. Keep the heat gun moving constantly around the hosel for even heat distribution.

Step 3: Prepare the Clubhead and New Shaft for Installation

This crucial preparation step has two goals: creating a perfectly clean hosel by removing all old epoxy, and roughening the new shaft’s tip with sandpaper to ensure maximum adhesion. Many club-building experts will tell you that this is the most important part of learning how to change a golf shaft. A successful, durable, and safe bond is entirely dependent on meticulous preparation. Any shortcuts taken here will likely result in a failed bond down the road. The objective is to create two perfectly prepared surfaces that will allow the epoxy to form the strongest possible connection.

Follow this preparation sequence exactly for a professional-grade result:

Clean the Hosel Thoroughly: While the hosel is still warm from the removal process, use a wire brush to scrape out as much of the old, softened epoxy residue as you can. Once the clubhead has cooled down completely, use a Q-tip dipped in acetone to scrub the inside of the hosel until it is perfectly clean. There should be no dust, oil, or old epoxy remaining.
Mark Shaft Insertion Depth: Take your new shaft and insert it into the clean, empty hosel until it bottoms out. Use your permanent marker to make a small mark on the shaft right at the top edge of the hosel. This line shows you exactly how deep the shaft will be inserted.
Roughen the Tip: Remove the shaft from the hosel. Using your sandpaper, lightly sand the tip of the shaft, from the very end up to the insertion mark you just made. You don’t need to press hard; the goal is just to remove the glossy finish and create a dull, abraded texture. Sanding the tip creates micro-abrasions that give the epoxy much more surface area to grip.
Slide on the New Ferrule: Take your new ferrule and slide it onto the shaft, smaller end first. Push it up the shaft well past the sanded area so it will be out of the way during the epoxy application.

Analogy: “Think of this step like preparing a wall before painting. You would never paint over old, flaky paint and expect a good result. A perfectly clean hosel is your foundation for a bond that lasts.”

Step 4: Mix Epoxy and Install the New Shaft

The installation is complete once you have applied epoxy to the shaft tip and hosel, inserted the shaft with a gentle twist to spread the adhesive, and cleaned off all the excess for a tidy finish. With your components perfectly prepped, it’s time for the final assembly. Working with two-part epoxy is straightforward, but you should work efficiently as it begins to set relatively quickly. This is where your careful preparation on the how to change a golf shaft process pays off, leading to a clean and secure installation. The goal here is to achieve complete coverage of the bonding surfaces, ensure the shaft is fully seated (meaning it’s inserted as deep into the hosel as it can go), and leave a clean finish.

Here is the precise method for a flawless installation:

Mix the Epoxy: On your piece of cardboard, squeeze out equal amounts of the two parts of your golf-specific epoxy. Use a razor blade or mixing stick to mix them together thoroughly for about 30 seconds, until the color is uniform.
Apply the Epoxy: Apply a generous coat of the mixed epoxy to the entire prepared (sanded) tip of the new shaft. Then, apply a liberal amount to the inside walls of the clubhead’s hosel.
Insert the Shaft: Gently insert the epoxy-coated shaft tip into the hosel. As you push it in, use a twisting slightly to ensure even distribution of the epoxy around the shaft and the inside of the hosel. Push the shaft in until it is fully seated.
Align the Shaft: If your shaft has a logo or graphic, now is the time to align it. A common practice is to have the logo facing down (away from you at address), but this is a matter of personal preference.
Clean Up Excess Epoxy: With the shaft installed and aligned, use a paper towel (sometimes with a little acetone for stubborn spots) to wipe away any and all excess epoxy that has squeezed out from the top of the hosel. Work quickly before the epoxy begins to set. Once clean, you can slide the ferrule down into its final position against the hosel.

Pro Tip: Gently tap the butt end of the grip on the floor. This uses gravity to ensure the shaft is fully seated in the hosel.

A good rule of thumb: It’s better to use slightly too much epoxy and wipe away the excess than to use too little and create a weak, unsafe bond. Be thorough!

Step 5: Cure the Epoxy (The Final and Most Important Step)

The final step is to let the club rest and allow the epoxy to fully cure for 24-48 hours. Using the club before this period is complete will ruin the bond. You’ve done all the hard work, and your club looks perfect. The temptation to take it out to the range right away is strong, but this final, passive step is the most critical part of the entire how to change a golf shaft process. While the epoxy may feel hard to the touch in as little as 10 minutes, its internal chemical bonds are still forming and strengthening. Subjecting the club to the incredible forces of a golf swing before this process is complete will cause the bond to fail.

Patience is Key: Do NOT use the club for at least 24 hours. Hitting balls before the epoxy has fully cured is the number one reason for a failed DIY reshafting project.

Set the club aside in a safe place, standing upright, and let it cure undisturbed. While some epoxies may advertise a faster cure time, the professional standard is to wait a full 24 hours at minimum, with 48 hours being even safer, especially in cooler or more humid environments. After this waiting period, your club is ready for a grip and is officially ready for play.

For your convenience, here are some of the most essential supplies needed for a successful reshafting project, including top-rated epoxy kits that simplify the process.

FAQs About how to change golf shaft

Can I really replace my golf shaft myself?

Yes, replacing a golf shaft yourself is a feasible task if you have the correct tools and follow the steps with patience. It is a more involved process than changing a grip, but it is absolutely a manageable DIY project for golfers who are comfortable with hands-on tasks. The keys to success are careful preparation, especially cleaning the hosel, and allowing the epoxy to fully cure before use.

How much does it cost to have a professional do it?

Professional reshafting services generally charge $20-$25 per club for labor, plus the separate cost of the new shaft. This service is offered by Certified Club Technicians at most major golf retail stores. The price is for the labor of removing the old shaft and installing the new one. This does not include the cost of the new shaft. It’s a great option for those who only need one club done or prefer the convenience and guarantee of an expert installation.

Is the process different for a driver versus an iron?

While the steps are identical, the main difference is the shaft’s tip size; drivers and woods use .335″/.350″ tips while irons use .355″/.370″ tips. The step-by-step process of heating, cleaning, prepping, and epoxying is exactly the same for both. However, you must ensure you have a shaft with the correct tip size, which is the diameter of the shaft end that fits into the clubhead.
* Woods (Drivers, Fairways): Typically use a .335″ or .350″ tip diameter.
* Irons: Typically use a .355″ (taper tip) or .370″ (parallel tip) diameter.

What about changing the shaft on an adjustable driver?

To change the shaft on an adjustable driver, you apply this same heat-and-epoxy process to the adapter sleeve, which then screws into the driver head. This is a common point of confusion. Using the driver’s wrench to swap between two shafts that already have adapters is not reshafting. The process in this guide applies to permanently installing a new, raw shaft into one of those adapter sleeves. You would secure the adapter sleeve in your vise and treat it exactly like a standard clubhead hosel.

Final Summary: Key Takeaways for Your Reshafting Project

You now have the complete, data-driven playbook on how to change a golf shaft. Whether you’re repairing a favorite club or chasing better performance, this process puts you in the driver’s seat of your own equipment. It’s a project that builds a deeper connection to your gear and offers significant savings and customization options. Success is not about being a master club-builder; it’s about being patient and methodical.

By following these proven club-building steps, you can confidently customize your equipment for better performance on the course. To ensure your project is a success, always remember these four critical pillars of the process:

Heat, Don’t Torch: Use a heat gun to apply controlled, even heat to the hosel for safe and effective removal of the old shaft.
Preparation is Paramount: A perfectly clean hosel and a properly abraded shaft tip are the non-negotiable foundations for a strong, lasting epoxy bond.
Use the Right Materials: Always use a high-strength, golf-specific epoxy. Standard hardware store adhesives are not designed for the job.
Patience is the Final Step: Allow the epoxy to cure for a full 24-48 hours before using the club. This final wait guarantees the bond will hold up on the course.

Whether you choose the DIY route or go with a pro, you are now equipped with the expert knowledge to make the best decision for your game.

Last update on 2025-09-12 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

How to Change Golf Shaft: Irons & Driver, Steps, Cost 2025