Wet Golf Clubs? How To Prevent Rust & Damage

Caught in a downpour on the back nine? Wondering if that puddle your 7-iron landed in is a death sentence for your set? You’re not alone. Every golfer faces the inevitable question of whether their expensive equipment can handle the elements, and the fear of finding a rusty, ruined set of clubs is a common concern that can affect both your game and your wallet. This guide cuts through the myths and provides a clear, data-driven action plan to ensure your clubs survive the rain and perform their best for years to come.

Yes, golf clubs can get wet. They are designed for an outdoor sport and can withstand exposure to rain. However, allowing moisture to sit on them for prolonged periods without proper drying is what causes significant damage, primarily in the form of rust on steel components and the rapid degradation of grips.

Leveraging an extensive analysis of equipment care guidelines and material science, this comprehensive guide unpacks the proven methods for protecting your investment. We will detail the immediate actions you must take after a wet round, provide a step-by-step deep cleaning process for soaked clubs, and outline the long-term storage strategies that prevent corrosion and decay. Think of this as your complete playbook for golf club care in any weather.

Key Facts

Steel is the Enemy of Water: Most modern iron and wedge heads are made of steel, which is highly susceptible to rust (iron oxide) when exposed to water and oxygen for extended periods, directly impacting the club’s balance and groove performance.

Grips are Highly Vulnerable: Prolonged wetness is particularly damaging to rubber grips. Moisture causes them to become slick, hard, and eventually crack prematurely, severely affecting your hold and control over the club during a swing.

Internal Damage is a Silent Killer: A critical but often overlooked issue is that steel shafts can rust from the inside out if moisture seeps in. This internal corrosion can weaken the shaft over time, leading to unexpected breakage.

Heat Can Be Harmful: When cleaning clubs, using hot water is a common mistake. High temperatures can weaken the epoxy and dislodge the ferrules—the plastic connectors between the clubhead and the shaft. Warm water is always the correct choice.

Storage Location is Crucial: Storing clubs in a car trunk, garage, or shed exposes them to extreme temperature fluctuations and humidity. This environment accelerates damage and is one of the leading causes of premature equipment failure.

Contents show

The Short Answer: Can Golf Clubs Get Wet?

So, you want the bottom line: can golf clubs get wet? The definitive answer is yes. Golf is an outdoor sport, and manufacturers design clubs to withstand some exposure to the elements, including rain. Playing a round in wet conditions won’t instantly destroy your equipment. However, the real issue isn’t the initial wetness—it’s what you do afterward. Prolonged exposure to moisture without immediate and proper drying is the true culprit behind long-term damage.

The consensus among golf equipment experts is clear: while clubs are built to be resilient, their longevity and performance are directly tied to post-round maintenance. Leaving wet clubs in your bag overnight or for a few days creates the perfect environment for rust to form on steel components and for grips to degrade. Think of it like any other high-performance tool; it can handle tough conditions, but it requires proper care to maintain its integrity. But what exactly happens when they stay wet for too long?

The most critical takeaway is this: water itself doesn’t ruin clubs, but neglect does. A simple, consistent drying and cleaning routine is the single most effective way to prevent rust, protect your grips, and ensure your clubs last for seasons to come.

What Really Happens: How Water Damages Each Part of Your Club

Water primarily causes rust on steel clubheads and shafts, which affects performance and integrity. It also degrades rubber grips, making them slick and causing them to crack prematurely. To truly understand the importance of drying your clubs, you need to know what’s happening at a material level. Each component of your golf club reacts to moisture differently, and the potential for damage varies significantly from the head to the grip.

From our analysis of equipment materials, it’s evident that the main threats are oxidation (rust) on ferrous metals and the chemical breakdown of polymers in the grips. A common and costly mistake is underestimating how quickly these processes can begin. Here is a clear breakdown of how water affects each part of your club.

Club Part	Material(s)	Effect of Water	Key Risk
Irons & Wedges	Steel	Causes oxidation (rust) on the surface and in grooves.	Rust erodes grooves, affecting spin and performance.
Woods & Drivers	Titanium, Composites	Can affect finishes, adhesives, and graphics.	Submersion can compromise internal components.
Shafts	Steel, Graphite	Can cause rust, especially from the inside out.	Internal rust weakens the shaft, risking breakage.
Grips	Rubber, Synthetics	Becomes slick, hardens, and degrades chemically.	Cracking and loss of tackiness, leading to poor control.
Ferrules	Plastic	Can be loosened or dislodged by hot water.	Compromises the connection between head and shaft.

Pro Tip: Raw-faced wedges are an exception—they’re designed to rust for better feel and spin. Don’t panic if yours does! This intentional surface oxidation actually increases friction for more control on shorter shots.

Clubheads: The Battle Against Rust and Finish Damage

Steel irons rust, affecting grooves and performance. Woods and drivers are less prone to rust but their finishes and adhesives can be damaged; never submerge them. The clubhead is where the magic happens, but it’s also a primary point of contact for water and dirt. The material of the clubhead dictates its vulnerability.

Based on an analysis of modern equipment, a clear distinction in care is necessary. What works for a forged steel iron can be detrimental to a multi-material driver. Here’s how water impacts different types of clubheads:

Irons and Wedges (Steel): The vast majority of these clubs are made from steel, which is an alloy of iron. When steel is exposed to water and oxygen, it undergoes oxidation, creating iron oxide—more commonly known as rust. This isn’t just a cosmetic issue. Rust erodes the sharp edges of the grooves on the clubface, which are essential for generating spin. Degraded grooves lead to less control, inconsistent shots, and poor performance, especially out of the rough or in wet conditions.
Woods and Drivers (Titanium & Composites): Modern drivers, fairway woods, and hybrids are typically made from lighter materials like titanium and carbon composites. While these are far less susceptible to rust than steel, they are not immune to water damage. The primary risk is to the finishes, paint, and the adhesives used to bond different parts of the clubhead. Submerging a modern driver in water is a terrible idea, as moisture can seep into internal cavities and compromise the complex construction.
Vintage Wooden Clubs: For those who play with or collect older clubs, water is a major threat. True wooden clubheads are like sponges. Moisture can cause the wood to swell, warp, and ultimately crack as it dries, rendering the club unusable. These require the most delicate care, typically just a wipe-down with a slightly damp cloth.

Shafts & Grips: The Hidden Dangers

Moisture can rust steel shafts from the inside, causing unseen weakness. Wet grips become slick and degrade quickly, losing their tackiness and durability. While golfers tend to focus on the clubhead, the shaft and grip are arguably more critical for performance and safety. Damage here is often less obvious but can be far more catastrophic.

The hidden danger, identified through analysis of equipment failures, is internal corrosion. Golfers might see a pristine-looking shaft while rust is silently eating away at it from the inside. Water can enter through tiny openings at the top of the hosel or the bottom of the grip. Once inside a steel shaft, it can sit undetected, slowly weakening the metal until it fails—often during a powerful swing. Graphite shafts are more resistant to this kind of water damage, but they should still be dried thoroughly to protect their finish and the integrity of the connection points.

Grips, however, are where golfers feel the most immediate impact. Ever had a slippery grip ruin a shot? Proper drying is the simple fix. Here’s why it’s so important:

Loss of Tackiness: When rubber grips get wet, they become incredibly slick. This forces a golfer to hold the club tighter, creating tension in the hands and arms, which destroys a fluid swing.
Chemical Degradation: Prolonged moisture accelerates the breakdown of the rubber compounds. The grips can become hard, brittle, and develop cracks, losing all their shock-absorbing properties and feel.
Premature Wear: A constantly wet or damp grip will simply not last as long as one that is kept dry, forcing more frequent and costly replacements.

Step 1: Immediate Care After a Rainy Round

Immediately after playing in the rain, thoroughly wipe down every club (head, shaft, and grip) with a dry towel and clean out the grooves to remove debris and moisture. The first 15 minutes after you finish a wet round are the most critical. Taking a few moments for immediate care can prevent nearly all of the long-term damage that moisture can cause. This isn’t a complex process; it’s a simple, disciplined routine.

The professional standard of care, confirmed across numerous golf maintenance guides, is built on speed and thoroughness. Don’t just throw your clubs in the trunk and tell yourself you’ll get to them later. Rust and grip decay don’t wait. Think of this 5-minute routine as the best investment you can make in your clubs’ longevity.

Bring an Extra Towel. The most prepared golfers have a “wet weather” towel and a separate, completely dry towel waiting in the car. As soon as you finish your round, use the dry towel to do an initial wipe-down of everything.
Wipe Down the Entire Club. Start at the grip and work your way down to the clubhead. Pay special attention to the grip, squeezing it with the towel to absorb as much surface moisture as possible. Continue down the shaft and then thoroughly dry the clubhead.
Clean the Grooves. Use a golf tee or a soft-bristled groove brush to remove any caked-on mud, sand, or grass from the clubface. Debris traps moisture against the steel, creating a hot spot for rust. A clean groove is a dry groove.
Dry the Bag and Headcovers. Don’t put dry clubs back into a soaking wet bag. Take all the clubs out. If your bag is wet, open all the pockets and leave it in a well-ventilated area to air dry. Do the same with your headcovers, which can act like damp sponges if not dried properly.

Step 2: The Deep Clean for Soaked or Neglected Clubs

For a deep clean, soak only iron/wedge heads in warm, soapy water for 5-10 minutes, scrub with a soft brush, rinse, and dry completely. Never submerge woods or grips. If you had a particularly muddy round or you forgot to dry your clubs immediately, a more thorough deep cleaning is necessary to remove stubborn grime and stop any potential rust in its tracks. This process is simple and uses basic household items.

The key to a safe and effective deep clean, as emphasized by equipment experts, is using the right technique for the right club component. Avoid common mistakes like using hot water, which can damage the ferrules (the plastic pieces where the head meets the shaft), or submerging components that shouldn’t be soaked.

Prepping Your Cleaning Station

You’ll need a bucket, warm water, mild dish soap, a soft-bristled brush, and several clean, dry towels. Before you start, gather your materials. Having everything ready makes the process quick and efficient. Proper equipment care means using tools that won’t cause damage. A wire brush, for instance, can scratch the chrome finish off your irons, so stick to softer materials.

A Bucket: Deep enough to submerge the clubheads of your irons and wedges.
Warm Water: Fill the bucket with warm, not hot, water.
Mild Dish Soap: A few teaspoons are all you need to create a gentle cleaning solution.
Soft-Bristled Brush: An old toothbrush or a vegetable brush works perfectly.
Clean, Dry Towels: You’ll need at least two—one for cleaning and one for thorough drying.

Cleaning Irons, Wedges, and Grips

Soak only iron heads in warm soapy water, scrub the face and grooves gently, rinse thoroughly, and dry immediately. Wipe grips with a damp, soapy cloth and dry completely. This method is perfect for your steel clubs but requires careful attention to detail.

Here is the step-by-step process for a perfect clean every time:

Soak the Clubheads: Place your irons and wedges into the bucket of warm, soapy water. Submerge only the clubheads and ensure the water level stays below the ferrules. Let them soak for about 5-10 minutes to loosen dirt and grime.
Scrub the Heads: Remove one club at a time and use your soft-bristled brush to gently scrub the entire clubhead, paying special attention to the grooves. The soaking should have loosened most of the dirt, making this step easy.
Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the clubhead under a faucet of clean, lukewarm water. Make sure to wash away all soap residue, as it can attract dirt later.
Dry Completely: This is the most important step. Use a clean, dry towel to wipe down the entire club—head, shaft, and grip. Do not let them air dry, as this can lead to water spots and encourage rust formation.
Clean the Grips: Do not use hot water or submerge the grips. Simply dip a clean cloth in your soapy water solution, wring it out, and wipe down the entire surface of the grip. Rinse the cloth with clean water and wipe the grip again to remove soap residue. Finally, dry the grip completely with a separate towel.

How to Safely Clean Woods and Drivers

Never submerge woods or drivers. Use a damp cloth or soft brush with soapy water to gently scrub the clubhead, then wipe dry immediately. Because of their complex construction, paint, and finishes, woods and drivers require a more delicate approach.

Quick Fact: Modern drivers have complex internal structures and adhesives that can be compromised by submersion. Water can get trapped inside, affecting weight, balance, and sound, and ultimately leading to failure.

Follow these simple Do’s and Don’ts for your woods, hybrids, and driver:

DO dip a soft cloth or brush in your warm, soapy water and gently scrub the clubface and soleplate.
DO use a separate damp cloth with clean water to wipe away any soap residue.
DO dry the clubhead immediately and thoroughly with a clean towel.
DON’T ever submerge the clubhead in a bucket of water.
DON’T let water sit on the crown (the top of the clubhead) for any length of time.

Tackling Rust: From Mild Spots to Stubborn Corrosion

For mild rust, use household acids like white vinegar or lemon juice. After cleaning and drying, apply a steel polish or a light coat of WD-40 for protection. If you find a few spots of rust, don’t panic. Mild surface rust can often be removed easily.

The use of household acids is a well-known method for dissolving rust without damaging the underlying metal. For more stubborn spots, you can create a paste and let it sit. Here’s a tiered approach:

For Mild Rust: Dip a cloth in white vinegar or lemon juice and rub the affected area. The mild acidity will help dissolve the rust. For slightly tougher spots, you can use a non-abrasive scouring pad or a ball of aluminum foil dipped in vinegar to gently scrub the area. Always rinse with clean water and dry completely afterward.
For Stubborn Rust: Household products like Coca-Cola are also effective due to their phosphoric acid content. You can soak a rag in the soda and wrap it around the rusted area for an hour before scrubbing, rinsing, and drying.
Protection and Polishing: After you’ve removed the rust and the club is completely dry, it’s a good idea to add a layer of protection. Apply a small amount of chrome or steel polish to a soft cloth and buff the clubheads and steel shafts. Some also recommend a very light spray of WD-40 on a rag wiped onto the shafts to displace any remaining moisture and prevent future corrosion, but this should only be used on steel and never on clubfaces or near grips.

To make your club maintenance routine even easier, having a dedicated set of tools on hand is a game-changer. A quality golf club cleaning kit includes specialized brushes, groove sharpeners, and microfiber towels designed specifically for the job, ensuring you can quickly and safely care for your equipment after every round, wet or dry.

Step 3: Long-Term Prevention and Proper Storage

Always store clubs in a cool, dry place inside your home, not a car trunk or garage. Use headcovers and regularly inspect your clubs for any signs of wear or rust. Proactive prevention is far easier than reactive repair. The way you store your clubs between rounds has a massive impact on their condition and lifespan.

Synthesizing advice from numerous equipment care guides, the universal best practice is to treat your clubs like any other valuable piece of equipment. Avoid environments with high humidity and dramatic temperature swings. Are your clubs stored in your car trunk right now? It might be time to move them!

Find a Dry, Stable Environment: The best place for your clubs is inside your home in a closet or a corner of a room. This protects them from the dampness of a garage or basement and the intense heat that can build up in a car trunk, which can weaken the epoxy that holds clubheads in place.
Use Your Headcovers: Headcovers do more than just look good. Their primary job is to prevent your expensive drivers and woods from banging against your irons, which causes scratches, dings, and paint chips.
Keep Your Rain Hood Handy: Make sure your golf bag’s rain hood is in good condition and easily accessible. The moment it starts to drizzle, put it on. It’s the first line of defense in keeping your clubs and grips dry during a round.
Regular Inspection: Once a month, take a few minutes to give your clubs a quick once-over. Look for any new signs of rust, check if your grips are becoming hard or slick, and ensure the ferrules are still snug against the clubhead. Catching problems early prevents them from becoming major issues.
Consider Professional Maintenance: At least once a year, it can be beneficial to have a professional at a golf shop inspect your equipment. They can check for shaft integrity, re-groove your irons if needed, and ensure your grips are properly sized and in good condition.

FAQs About Wet Golf Clubs

Will rain ruin a golf bag?

Rain won’t instantly ruin a golf bag, but leaving it wet can lead to mold and material breakdown. To dry it, empty all pockets, open all zippers, and let it air dry completely. Your bag is your equipment’s home, and it needs care too. Based on common user experiences, the biggest risk is mildew. After a wet round, take everything out of the bag—balls, tees, gloves—and open every single pocket. Stand it up in a well-ventilated area until it is bone dry inside and out.

Can you leave golf clubs outside overnight?

No, you should not leave golf clubs outside overnight. Exposure to morning dew, humidity, and temperature changes will accelerate rust and damage to grips. Leaving clubs outside is one of the worst things you can do for them. The constant exposure to moisture from dew, combined with fluctuating temperatures, creates the perfect storm for rapid corrosion and material degradation. Always bring your clubs inside.

How long does it take for golf clubs to rust?

Rust can begin to form on steel clubs within hours if they are left wet. The key is to dry them as soon as possible after exposure to moisture. Rust is a chemical process called oxidation, and it begins the moment iron or steel is exposed to both oxygen and water. While you might not see visible orange spots for a day or two, the process starts immediately. This is why the post-round wipe-down is so critical.

What if my clubs were wet for weeks? Are they ruined?

If clubs have been wet for several weeks, there is a significant risk of irreparable damage like internal shaft rust and severe grip degradation. While they might “clean up” cosmetically, their performance and safety could be compromised. This is a worst-case scenario. Based on forum discussions of severe neglect, the biggest concerns are the ones you can’t see. The grips may be rotted and need immediate replacement. More dangerously, steel shafts could be rusted from the inside, creating a major weak point. A thorough cleaning is a start, but the clubs should be inspected by a professional before being used.

Final Summary: Protect Your Investment

Ultimately, knowing that your golf clubs can get wet without issue should give you confidence to play in less-than-ideal weather. The key takeaway from this guide is that water is not the enemy—neglect is. By integrating a few simple, quick habits into your post-round routine, you can completely eliminate the risks of rust and decay, ensuring your clubs perform exactly as they were designed to for many seasons.

Your golf clubs are a significant financial investment, and protecting them is about more than just aesthetics. It’s about ensuring performance, safety, and longevity. The steps outlined here are not complicated or time-consuming, but they are incredibly effective.

Act Fast: The immediate wipe-down after a wet round is your most powerful tool against damage.
Clean Smart: Use warm water for deep cleaning, focus on soft brushes, and never submerge your woods or drivers.
Store Properly: Keep your clubs in a dry, temperature-stable environment inside your home.

Don’t let a little rain shorten the life of your clubs. Implement these simple steps and play with confidence in any weather

Last update on 2025-08-27 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Wet Golf Clubs? How to Prevent Rust & Damage